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About lvflyer

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  1. Thoroughly check all ADs and SDs are complied with and if any SBs have been considered. They can be found at http://enstromhelicopter.com/support/technical-support/. The turbo takes a little bit getting use to because you can easily over boost. They didn't want to have a waste gate that would take away any extra power you would need in an emergency. Remember don't let the red line on the gauge kill you. I found on mine that if there isn't a mechanic around that is familiar with the Enstrom you are better off getting the manuals and learning yourself then be supervised by a mechanic. Chances are you will know more than them. I found many around the world that are quick to help with any questions you may have about flight or maintenance. Don't be concerned about slight bounce on takeoff. The oleos on the struts remove a lot of that when not fully extended, but if not filled correctly or rotors need tracked and balanced it will be an uncomfortable dance and noticeable bump in flight. The dampers need occasional bleeding of air for optimum smoothness as well. Three heavy blades give lots of inertia, but can be hard to get turning if you get below the power curve. On initial engagement she'll rock and roll a bit till the centrifugal force balances the blades also. I find my GEM engine analyzer is a must have for proper leaning, oh yes Enstroms are designed to be leaned contrary to Robinsons. Remember you were told never touch the mixture in a helicopter? Enstroms demand it for full power.
  2. I remember at the time that I researched the N number and discovered the hours and experimental type certificate in the history documents. I don't remember where at this time, but there was a discussion on Facebook in one of the groups. We postulated the reason for the experimental was the addition of devices like FLIR and Spotlights, etc. It was probably flown over gross on multiple occasions if not all the time. It was sold to a school in Colorado, if I recall correctly. Mine had 6700 hours on them and 2 of them did show slight cracks and Lamiflex bushing wear. The previous mechanic obviously wasn't as great as everyone says he is. I replaced them with serviceable ones.
  3. Well I'm only putting about 20 hours a year on my Enstrom 280C. I bought it with about half life left on the components. At that low rate if I take into account the cost of replacing the time limited components and that I do a lot of the work myself with supervision I figure it costs me about $300 per hour for maintenance. That would be a lot lower per hour if I flew more since the Lamiflex bearings begin to expire once you open the package in 5 years. Those cost about $7000 to replace. So that right there is $70 per hour for me. That doesn't consider the fact when I replace the transmission and engine or any other part the value should increase. With that in mind the hourly cost is really only fuel in a perfect world. Still an Enstrom is a lot cheaper than renting and the least expensive to privately own if not owning for commercial purposes. You will just have to fly a non turbo model to see if it is right for you. Oh and there there has only been one fatal accident from a catastrophic failure in an Enstrom not due to pilot error and that accident was caused by fatigue cracks in an experimental registered model used by a police department with over 15,000 hours. Two winters ago a spindle cracked which initiated a world wide AD to have all spindles checked. By far the safest helicopter out there.
  4. Enstrom's are heavy so they modified with a turbo normalizer for 34" of manifold pressure. The older models without turbo are under powered. Max gross on Enstrom is much higher than a r22. I don't have any problems with my 280C.
  5. If you are on Facebook join the Enstrom Helicopter Appreciation Society group. A member named Davida Hillberg has done lots of modifications to Enstroms. He may have your answer.
  6. I own a 1977 280C that has a lot of hours. The 28A as others have said has no turbo. It will require almost full throttle with 2 people to hover. One just crashed in Phoenix. I think he leaned it too aggressively. While ferrying it from Oregon to Arizona I was told by the ferry pilot that they were maxed on power quite often. For your own enjoyment it will be fine. Even mine with turbo has limits in hot weather and heavy. It is real easy to overboost the engine in hover and the oil gets really hot if you stay in hover or slow flight, but I think you have that with all of them. I learned in r22 in Vegas so many times to take off we had to slowly enter forward flight or we would bump the runway. The Enstrom will never do that. With the 3 blades it has so much inertia you can hover after an auto. In my research I found an I agree that if an Enstrom is maintained properly it is the safest and the most economical to operate.
  7. I was surprised to find out when I bought my Enstrom that it was designed to be properly aggressively leaned since all my learning was in R22s. The Enstrom will not run at full potential without leaning. The old Enstroms relied on EGT gauges whereas new ones and retrofitted ones, like mine, rely on Turbine inlet Temperatures on an engine analyzer. Believe me it makes a huge difference in performance and economy. Never lean an R22 it is de-rated.
  8. Steeve I went from Mooney to rotorcaft in R22 and also have time in 300. I recently purchased a 280C and have to say it is the best rotorcraft I have been in. Coming from Cessna fixed wing there are some gotchas in transitioning to rotorcraft. Do you have any rotorcraft time?
  9. Maybe I'm really anal about my aircraft maintenance, but I think this shows 7 years of neglect more than 7 years of care by "the best helicopter mechanic around here". What do you think? Found the transmission bolts loose and lots of RTV to cover it all up instead of just torque to SIL 0166 recommendations. Under cockpit floor and in engine bay and all skins show major neglect. Took hours to clean and will have to reapply zinc chromate to most panels and to many support tubes. Collective and belt drive not rigged properly. Main rotors never maintained and had bare aluminum exposure for the entire time, thus exfoliation. This is a mess, but won't be when I'm done. Here is link to what I discovered so far. www.dahome.net/enstrom.htm
  10. Follow up. Heard from Bayard DuPont from Enstrom. SIL 0166 addressed this issue and logs say it was complied with, NOT. Found bolts loose so torqued to specs and no more seeps. I got rid of all the red RTV because you aren't suppose to use that with synthetic gear oil. Once I got rid of that I found I could turn the bolts with a short open end wrench. Torqued to 100 in/lbs and so far so good. I'm not sure if I need to supplement the Proseal so the verdict is out. Just drained it today and made a mess doing so. Didn't think that small funnel hole would be problem with gear oil, duh. Good thing I didn't have the top engine inspection plates off.
  11. As I said I am in the middle of my annual and am going to re-prime all the areas on the frame with corrosion. Real sorry mess if you ask me for 8 years of annuals and 2 engines. Seems to me with the engine out would have been the time to clean and recoat frame members, oh well. What I am looking for is a picture of a rebuilt transmission. Mine has a gray/brown epoxy around the seam on the bottom and gobs of permatex over and all around the bolts in the back. Should the epoxy be there? I know the permatex shouldn't it is gobbs of mess. There is a small seep of fluid, just enough to make a mess on the belt. I think he was trying a shotgun approach to stop a drip. It's odd that the permatex actually is covering the safety wire for the drain plug and magnetic pickup. Hmm was the transmission actually drained at last annual? Another mystery. In my experience if you go picking on a patch to find out what is under it things might get worse so I cleaned it off real good and watching for a seep. If there is one I'll just supplement the permatex red with Permatex Spray N Seal. I'm just wondering if this isn't a common problem with rebuilt transmissions. Mine is due for rebuild in 300 hours so I would like to get by till then. I just don't like the mess.
  12. That's OK its good to revive the thread anyway. I've learned a whole bunch since I posted last fall. Yes I have seen Dennis' video, before I purchased. Kinda helped me make the decision. I've also talked to him on forums. Much appreciated. Yes I did fly at night, but didn't notice the blue. I assume at full throttle it pretty much is screaming out of the pipe. There is only inches from turbo to outlet. I do know the heat is wrecking havoc with the paint and inner frame. Heat is causing corrosion that has not been treated on the cross tubes in the engine compartment. I'll be treating them now. The exhaust port on the side panel is deteriorating from the heat and will eventually have to be recreated. It's a piece of polished aluminum that is rolled and is now burning to a crisp at the top. The exterior paint around the area is dull and will have to be polished to get back the shine. So with that being said It wouldn't surprise me that it shot a blue flame at night. If you are on Facebook you can follow me as I put up videos and pictures. You can join the Enstrom Appreciation group and find me on there.
  13. And the saga continues. My Enstrom is currently in the middle of annual. In addition to the collective not being rigged properly I just discovered the belt drive system was also not rigged properly. It was obvious to anyone that would remove the seat pan. The engaging lever shield is actually cracked because the rigging was so far off and couldn't disengage the belt fully. Could be reason for the main rotors continuing to turn at high rate after disengaged and at start up. Hmmm I guess 7 annuals didn't uncover this dangerous fact. You want facts there they are. Mechanic handles this for 7 years and had wrong plugs, wrong fuel strainer retainer pin, wrong grease, Enstrom said to discontinue Mobil 28 use in 2009 SIL 0168, wrong collective rigging, wrong belt drive rigging, more than 1 year worth of sludge build up in cowling, The list goes on and on. I think someone should be losing their A&P and IA license. These ommissions are down right deadly. I wouldn't be surprised if he never had an annual checklist or a maintenance manual. How can you miss these things if you did. I'm just an owner and I can see they are wrong. Corrosion on frame and main rotor has gone unchecked for 7 years as well. Engine has been out 3 times and the frames have never been refinished properly. My mechanic and I have lots of work ahead of us. At $5000 base annuals, what the previoius owner told me when I was going to be a partner, this shouldn't be the case. Come on 50 hours each year at $100 per hour. What can you do with that? What should have been done?
  14. That was many hours of flight ago. I just completed cross country and many other flights. I may not have the experience as Dennis Kenyon or other long time Enstrom pilots, but I am 100% confident I can fly this ship under all circumstances safely, with and without passengers, as well as any pilot that trained exclusively in an Enstrom. That's why the insurance requirements are bogus.
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