steveolive Posted May 29, 2012 Report Share Posted May 29, 2012 I'm having a difficult time getting my MD500E T/R to track/balance. We can get it to about .2 ips without the horizontal stab, but it goes to .4 or more with the stab on. We've changed strap pack, feather bearing, driveshaft, blades...nothing seems to bring it in. Microvibe gives us weight suggestions but they don't get it closer than about .25 to .4 ips. Any suggestions for what I'm missing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yzchopper Posted June 2, 2012 Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 Contact Charlie Duren at Wilson Construction in Canby, OR. He should be able to help as he is the DOM there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superstallion6113 Posted June 2, 2012 Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 (edited) What work was recently done to require the T&B? Edited June 2, 2012 by superstallion6113 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apiaguy Posted June 2, 2012 Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 (edited) Focus on the problem...it isn't the stabilizer..it is the rotor..1. Shimming of the hub in the tail rotor fork probably leads to more frustration than anything else..cause if it's not very centered the weight change at blade tips or pc bolts won't correct it...that's where I'd put my money2. Blade static balance with good feather bearings (not much slop on the hub)3. Now shoot the assembly and use tip weights as necessary before proceeding to balance bolt washers Also...the reason the vib goes up with the stab on is due to the increased mass back there...that causes the whole assembly to move with more force and u see increased ips Edited June 2, 2012 by apiaguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest pokey Posted June 3, 2012 Report Share Posted June 3, 2012 (edited) Sounds like a sympathetic vibration. Make sure everything is tight and no cracks. Also, once you get the vibration from .4 to a .2?---add that same amount of weight in the same location and that should get you to zero. I know the Chadwicks have a problem below .2 sometimes to find a clock angle, & i have used this to get it well below the .2 ( which is acceptable level). I had a Hiller one time that had the same problem, never did figure it out ! Keep us posted & let us know. Edited June 3, 2012 by pokey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest pokey Posted June 3, 2012 Report Share Posted June 3, 2012 Here is tip for all of you Chadwick guys: the accelerometer is "uni-directional" & "fires" the strobex when the heavy side is towards the "cable" end of it. SO? as in the 300/500, the cable end will point to 12 O'clock,,,, where ever you see the clock angle while shooting the strobex? Once shut down, position the T/R to the observed clock angle, and the weight will need to be added @ the 6 O'clock position. (the light side) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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